CPU FANS & COOLERS FOR PC PROCESSORS
Can I use an
AMD fan on an Intel socket or vice-versa? No! AMD and Intel
sockets are incompatible with each other when it comes to size, mounting
points, and contact areas. However, there is one major exception to this - many
fans nowadays are 'Universally Compatible' with many sockets. What that means
is that the fans come with mounting hardware that is compatible with various
sockets across the Intel & AMD lines. One famous model that has mounting
hardware for both manufacturers is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo.
WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON MATERIALS IN A HEATSINK?
Most heatsinks
for processor cooling are made of copper, aluminium, or a mixture of both.
Copper is the better conductor of the two and more expensive.
MY CPU FAN IS DEAD. SHOULD I REPLACE JUST THE FAN OR
THE ENTIRE THING?
Most people find
it easier to replace the entire cooler (re-apply thermal paste) because it's
much simpler to do so. However, heat-sinks don't really have movable parts that
fail - meaning that replacing just the fan component of the CPU heat-sink fan
bundle is all you really need to do. To make sure you do it right though, get
the exact measurements of the fan and make sure the replacement model you buy
aligns in exactly the same contact points.
HOW TO INSTALL A HEATSINK
Installing a heat-sink isn't all that tough a job (most of the time), it's best to take your
time and make sure you're doing it right. After all, we don't want to fry that
nice new processor you've been aching to try out, now do we? Ah, how many times
have I heard someone who has toasted their CPU, just because they didn't take
the time to check if the heat-sink was properly installed. So, the number one
rule is to do a practice run and make sure you have good contact between the heat-sink
and CPU. I may be getting a little ahead of myself. Let's start with the basic
tools and materials we'll need:
Heatsink
Thermal grease
Screwdriver with a wide flat blade (non-magnetic is preferred!)
Anti-Static grounding strap
Isopropyl Alcohol (high quality please)
Cotton swabs and lint free tissue paper (lenses cleaner, coffee filters...)
A straight edge razer or equivalent
Mineral Spirits (or a suitable solvent of your choosing. I also like Goof Off)
CPU (of course!)
A lot of Patience!
STEP ONE: clean
the CPU and heat-sink. clean CPU and new heatsink (don’t forget to clean old and
keep it in a safe place) using a solvent like Isopropyl Alcohol and especially
if you're cleaning off old thermal compound. I use a cotton swab or que tips to
clean both the bottom of the heatsink and the CPU. We only need to clean the
CPU core itself. It's unnecessary to clean anywhere else on the chip, since it
won't be contacting the heatsink. After I clean up with the solvent, I finish
cleaning with Isopropyl Alcohol. I use a lint free tissue for this job, and
clean both the heatsink bottom and CPU core again. Just let that dry off before
going to the next step.
STEP TWO: Now
that we have a nice clean heatsink and CPU core, we can get our thermal grease
ready for application. Put a small amount on the blade, and smooth this over
the surface of the CPU core. Try to get a nice thin and even application on the
core. It's going to be thin enough to just cover the core so I can't see it,
but not so much grease that it's going to gush all over once I press the
heatsink down onto the core. The grease is used to fill in the tiny gaps
between the surface of the heatsink and the CPU core.
STEP THREE: time
to put the heatsink on. Most heatsinks have a conventional metal clip, it has a
front side and a back side. It's very important to identify the front and back
as this is crucial to getting a level seat on the CPU core. I can identify the
front of the heatsink in two ways. Most heatsinks will have one side of the
bottom that is notched out or recessed. This is to clear the raised plastic
header on the front of the socket. Another way to identify the front end of the
heatsink is by the clip itself. In many cases, the clip will have a swivel
hook, thumb depressor, or notch for a screw driver. In contrast, the back end
of the clip will just be a plain old hook. As mentioned above, some clips are
designed so that they can be depressed using your fingers, in other cases it
might be necessary to use a screwdriver.
STEP FOUR: Now
that I am sure which end of the heatsink goes to the front of the socket. First,
attach the back end of the clip on to the back middle tab of the socket A. In
order to do this, I have to tilt the heatsink back on an angle so that the clip
will hook around the plastic tab. Once it's hooked, I can slowly and firmly
push down on the heatsink until it is flat with the CPU core. Being right
handed, I use my left hand to hold the heatsink in place for the next bit.
Taking my flat head screw driver*, I place it in the notch on the front clip
and push down until it hooks on the front plastic tab. I'm extra careful in
doing this as it requires some force to push the clip down and on to the
plastic tab. It's important the the screw driver is firmly seated in the metal
tab so it won't slip out.
* - Tip: To avoid
damage to your motherboard. Customers have suggested taping a piece of
cardboard or like material to the motherboard so if the screw driver slips it
will help to prevent damage.
STEP FIVE: make a
double check on the CPU, heatsink, cable connectors and MoBo as well and it
seems to be firmly attached. Remember to connect your fan to power.
STEP SIX: always,
always and ALWAYS when you make some important changes to your PC; test it
before back in original place. What do I mean? Leave the CASE/CPU opened and
turn it on. There is something always that you may have to check and fix it. Like
cables, wires, connectors, some “new internal noises” and others.
Once you are properly
sure and everything is working fine, close the machine, move it to the original
place where it belongs and finally enjoy your upgrade.
And just remember the FAN ORIENTATION inside the CPU. if this does not meet the requirements, check again your setup and computer in general.
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